Go Bar Deck & Molds

Yesterday, I fiddled around with a radius cutter, similar to the Lie-Nielsen tool, but I did not get anything approaching satisfactory results, so I set it aside.  The next big projects, though I won't likely work on it much until after the holidays, will be the Go Bar Deck, the Mold, and a clamping station.   

The Go Bar Deck should be a simple affair.  I visualize a plywood base and a plywood canopy of approximately 24 x 24 inches.  In the corner of each, a  3/8th or 1/2 inch threaded rod with a pair of bolts in each corner to hold everything together and allow for height adjustment.  LMI sells the go bars (CLGO), but they are a bit pricey at about four bucks a pop.  McMaster-Carr also sells 3/16 fiberglass rods at 5 foot lengths (8543K28) for about 2.50.  I will go with the McMaster-Carr, and if they don't quite work out, will order from LMI later.     

The base provides something to think about.  It's easy enough to have a 1/4 dowel in the center to capture the radius dish, and a second (not through the dish) to keep it from spinning like a lazy susan.  I have been wondering, however, should I make the base so it can serve as a sort of supplemental work station?  It's not an original idea, but what I have in mind is a two level base, with one side covered with carpet remnant, the other bare or covered with sandpaper.  The advantage would be a covered work surface that wouldn't mar the surface of the guitar while doing things like trimming bracing.  It would also, so far as the go-bar-deck itself is concerned, make it a bit more convenient to attach the base.  I will likely go for simplicity.

I have been procrastinating on the mold for a while, but have decided to press ahead at the next opportunity.  I intend to do it much the same way that I did the blanks for the radius dishes.  First, with a 1/4 spiral up-cut bit in my router, along with a brass bearing closest to that 1/4 inch diameter, I will trace the outline of the guitar into the MDF at approximately 1/4 inch depth.  That will provide two things, the inside contour of the mold, and the outside contour of a clamping station as well as the pressure pads for the mold itself once complete.   I will clean them up with the pattern bit.  Then do it again until I have enough pieces to stack 4 deep on each side, or a 3 inch thick mold.   I clean up the outside edges on the table saw.  I will talk about the design of the mold as I built it, so I can use photos to illustrate, but it too is a relatively simple affair.

I use the clamping station for a variety of purposes, not least as a test when bending the sides or binding.  It could also be used for a mold when bending sides with a heat blanket.  I have never used that method, so won't attest to it, but I have seen it illustrated a number of times.  I built my first on Sloane's advice, where the sides are essentially boiled soft, then quickly clamped in place.  I never found that workable, but like his model, I use spring loaded clamps when I want to use it for actual clamping -- e.g. letting a side rest after bending freehand.  Here again, it's a relatively simple affair, but I will talk more about the design as I build it.  I figure, if you're building the molds, might as well build the clamping station at the same time and save some scrap.

In the meantime, I have a piece of redwood that I have been using for guitar tops.  Since the parts have still not come in for my band saw, I have set up a time Tuesday to use the one at the school where I administer to re-saw some plates.  The responsible dean found it all very amusing, the Provost in the wood shop, and wanted to be there with camera should I happen to cut off a finger.  I can get a start on some sound-boards while slowly putting everything else together.   I've made the jointing jig, and I will likely use the zip flex pearl from LMI for the rosette itself, along with some perfling material.  I'll likely order all that after the holidays.